Mitchel Reel Musem - Mitchel Mates Discussion Group

Mitchell Reel Museum Discussion Group

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PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 11:56 am • #  
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Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2013 1:06 am
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ebay 161.jpg
i cant afford to buy mint or excellent condition reels. i use my reels in my fishing first and formost, so i have no need for collectibles and i take advantage of the reduced prices of reels with paint issues. since they are no longer of much value in the collectible market, i just repaint them.

i take everything off it. lightly sand with 180-220 grit paper. no need to sand down to all bare metal. just sand till smooth. you can keep all the old paint you want that is still adhering well and just sand till it all feels smooth to the touch. then i heat the rotor up with a heat could use a hair dryer. this drives all the trapped oil to the surface and then wipe it off. then i spray with two coats of duplicolor etching primer..let dry. then spray several coats of duplicolor engine paint. i will let the rotor stay out in the sun for a while till dry to the touch and then assemble it. i have completed this process sometimes within an hour. then i will leave the assembled reel sitting under a light bulb over night to bake the paint till it hardens.

the pics show the beat up 300 rotor, the paint and the finished rotor.

this is so easy, and also easy to touch up if needed after using the reel.

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PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 5:47 pm • #  
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Joined: Sat Jan 14, 2012 12:55 am
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It's possible...though the guys using Testor's Model Master spray can enamel, or Krylon and spray lacquer get some results that look bad, of easily strip off if cleaning agent are used.

Given that you aren't passing stuff of as mint collectables I don't see any problem.

Hardcore sorts seem to advocate complete strip or blasting off the original finish...though walnut shells seem to be the preferred medium for that.

The self etching primer has been recommended, since otherwise you'd have to rough up a sooth surface which then might look ugly even when coated.

I've also heard of engine paint being used.

The heating to cure seems to be most tricky, with anything getting baked enamel it seems that each coating of primer and topcoat needs to be done and baked. I've read that you want to wait for some air drying to occur first too.

You could do a Google search of baked enamel and there will be a host of suggestions for specific process regarding temp and length of heating time. One suggesting for small parts was using a toaster oven rather than a big kitchen oven...and you do want venting.

Might want to check some of those Stripers Online threads on custom reel finishing too.

Then again, since this is just for your own use you get to decide what's good enough...though if you go the full 9 yards you get a better, more durable finish.

PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 6:42 pm • #  
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Joined: Wed Sep 18, 2013 2:09 am
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Thank you very much for your advice.



PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 9:33 pm • #  
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Joined: Fri Jun 04, 2010 7:00 pm
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Location: USA
Hello Mangrovejack,

Sounds like you have things well under control. I would also support Smead's remarks, if you are only painting your reels for you to use then it is not a big deal. What I worry about which is the issue, what happens to the reels when they go to another person whom then decides to sell them as a super condition reels. A un-assuming un-knowledgable buyer then buys a reel as correct and it is not. Don't take this the wrong way please but many people would be very happy if you painted the reels other than black. Bright yellow would be a good alternative. Tight lines and Cheers

Regards, Scott

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