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PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2020 6:57 pm • #  
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Mates,
Can anyone tell me how to open up the drag on a Mitchell 302? I would like to service the drag components but am having a hard time getting it opened up.
Thanks
Kind Regards,
Bill :tup


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 10, 2020 9:17 am • #  
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Bill,
I sent you a PM, with some information I didn't want to make public, due to a third party.
I don't know if this file will help, but here it is.


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May your lines always be tight, Don


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 10, 2020 8:15 pm • #  
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Bill, take the drag adjuster keeper screw off, then turn the drag adjuster to the left (counterclockwise) until the adjuster comes off...you'll need the schematic Don posted to put all the parts back together in proper order...

Sandman


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 11, 2020 1:52 am • #  
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Don and Sandman,
Thanks for your response. My problem is I can not remove the Drag Assembly Screw. :nono :devil :sCh_taz: :sFi_flamethrower:

I am able to adjust the drag using the three pointed drag adjusting knob. I can also unscrew the spool, and take it off of the reel axle.

If either of you guys have a 302 handy could you walk me through how you would remove the drag assembly screw? Do you need to turn the drag adjusting knob either way to get the screw to come out?

Thanks so much for any help you can give.
Kind Regards,
Bill :tup


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 11, 2020 4:07 am • #  
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Bill, you have to get the drag nut screw out. It just unscrews counterclockwise like any other screw. Just hold the drag nut in place and it should unscrew. It’s difficult to tell from the diagram above, but it screws into the end of #11. Once you do this, the drag nut will come off. The fact that #11 is off the axle doesn’t matter unless it is spinning in the base of the spool when you turn the drag nut screw, in which case you’ll need to crank the drag all the way down and then unscrew the drag nut screw. If the screw in frozen from corrosion, then this may not work. Penetrating oil maybe?

Note you do want #11 on the axle tight. You do this with an open end wrench (it has flat spots) before you slide it into the spool. Coincidentally I just did one of these tonight.

Sandman


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 11, 2020 2:41 pm • #  
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Sandman,

Why would you want to tighten #11 on the axle with a wrench? I thought that the whole assembly should be removable by hand in the field without disassembly so that you could change line/spool.

J.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 11, 2020 3:01 pm • #  
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Bill,
It's a common sense thing...LOL. I was sitting watching TV thinking :sAng_banghead2: about this, and as Emril says bam it came to me.
Take the spool off, loosen the drag adjusting knob, when loose the screw will be easy to remove.
Should be problem solved.
I also left you a PM
Don

May your lines always be tight, Don


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 11, 2020 9:19 pm • #  
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Jr, - Why would you want to tighten #11 on the axle with a wrench? - If you don't, you can experience what Bill did (the spool can spin off the axle by simply loosening the drag nut after it was tightened down)...also, you don't need to remove #11 to service the reel in the field, or otherwise. The spool will slide completely off #11 (which remains attached to the axle) by taking off the drag nut screw and unscrewing #4 with the drag nut.

As you can see in the schematic, there are a number of parts to deal with when you do this, so I don’t believe Mitchell built this reel for quick change out of spools. This may be why they didn’t come with a spare spool. I’m not sure there is a big demand for changing line sizes when surf casting.

Don, this is all you need to do "Just hold the drag nut in place and it should unscrew."...if this doesn't work, the screw is frozen into the end of #11.

Sandman


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 11, 2020 9:38 pm • #  
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Hmmmm, I had to loosen mine quite a bit, before the screw tension turned easily.
Don

May your lines always be tight, Don


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 11, 2020 10:00 pm • #  
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Sandman,

I just looked at the "Salt-Water Mitchell Spinning Reel" manual that I have. It says:
Quote:
To remove spool, grasp spool by outer flange. Turn entire spool--counter-clockwise on right-hand model, clock-wise on left-hand model. Drag adjustment is not disturbed.


Seems like they intended the Salt-Water to be similar to their other models in that the spools could be changed without affecting the drag adjustment.

J.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 11, 2020 10:03 pm • #  
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Sorry, after looking further, it also states:
Quote:
CAUTION: When mounting a spool onto its shaft, make certain that the drag adjustment is not set up tightly. To disregard these instructions might result in damage to parts of the reel.


This would seem to indicate that the spool (or the spool's spindle) should not be torqued too tightly onto the shaft. I'm thinking that if Mitchell thought that it was possible to over-torque it by hand, if the drag is set too tight, I would be reluctant to use a wrench on it.

I could scan and send images if you would like.

J.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2020 12:29 am • #  
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Jr, I think we are essentially saying the same thing if reasonable torque is applied. The point to the caution is to not grab the spool and crank it on the shaft too hard...with the drag set tight, given the dimension of the spool, imagine how much torque you could apply to the copper threads on the shaft vs the steel threads on #11. A strong person could strip those threads or maybe tweak the shaft. Either way, if it is too loose, whether you tighten carefully with a wrench or with the spool, it will spin off if you tighten down the drag and spin the spool backwards, which can be easily fixed if you can get the drag nut screw off. Which is the issue here for Bill. That is why I suggested tightening down the drag, hold onto to the drag nut and unscrew the drag nut screw. If this doesn’t work, it is frozen to #11.

Sandman


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2020 12:50 am • #  
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Am I missing something? Tightening down on the drag nut, applies more pressure to the nuts from the Springs in side. Loosening the dragnut relieves pressure hence pressure off the screw. The one I have I never messed with. . Today I tried loosening the screw and could not. After loosening the dragnut the screw turned easily.

May your lines always be tight, Don


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2020 1:06 am • #  
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Don, a logical question...tightening the drag compresses the spring and applies pressure to the spool by moving #4 closer to the spool...the drag nut screw is unaffected by this. It remains in the same position tightened down to #11 and does not receive any increased pressure.

The reason I said to tighten the drag, is because it may help stop #11 from turning while trying to unscrew the drag nut when the spool is off the axle...if the spool is tight to the axle, you don't have to tighten the drag, nor does it do any good relative to getting the drag nut off.

Now that you have your screw off, try taking it on and off in tight drag and loose drag positions...it should not be any different...if so, something is wrong..

Sandman


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2020 1:24 am • #  
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Mates,
Got this reel with a box of Mitchell reels which had several nice 300's I wanted.
Here is what the 302 looked like.
Attachment:
group shot 1-edited.jpg

Had no problem completely disassembling the entire reel until I came to the spool.

Well, with the help of Don and Sandman we determined that the drag assembly screw (#1) was frozen inside the spool spindle (#11). I have soaked it in PB Blaster for three days and no luck.
Today, I had been torquing the screw so much that the wide shallow slot was badly buggered. Tonight, I ran out of patience and since the screw was toast anyway :devil
Time for the drill! :sSW_saberfight2:
Attachment:
Spool Group-1.jpg

The above photos show my progress with the drill. Started with a very small one then larger. Small ring you see is the remains of the screw head after drilling. :cute
Red arrows point to the remnants of the drilled out screw.
Tomorrow I'm off to the hardware to buy an ez-out that I hope will fit.
Stay tuned. :sSW_stormtrooper:
Kind Regards,
Bill :tup


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2020 1:32 am • #  
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Nice work Bill!...thanks for the update...you are well on your way...hopefully all you’ll need is a drag nut screw...

Sandman


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2020 3:52 pm • #  
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Sandman,
Could you possibly date this reel? It has a S/N 0981345 stamped on the foot. Is that the correct handle for this date and version? There were four large saltwater reels in the box of mixed reels I bought and I am not sure about the handles.

Got the threaded screw extractor tool and am prepping for surgery now. :sFun_crazydance:

Thanks so much.
Kind Regards,
Bill


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2020 11:53 pm • #  
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Bill, your 302 was produced in 1967.

The handle is not correct. That handle belongs on a 402. The handle in the bottom of the photo below is the correct handle for your reel.

Let us know how post Sx recovery goes...that's a delicate operation.

Sandman

Image


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2020 12:56 am • #  
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Bill, correction, your handle is for a 406, not a 402. The 402 had a large round grip vs a torpedo grip.

Sandman


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2020 7:26 am • #  
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Bill,
I have a round handle, minus the High Speed sticker. if you want it it's yous.
Don


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May your lines always be tight, Don


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2020 4:37 pm • #  
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Hi GreatLaker, Just something's to think about. First if the easyout won't get it out and you have drill some more you can drill it as close to the screw size as possible , then use a starting tap to tap out the rest of the thread that's left in the hole.The only thing is your going to have to get a metric tap ( all the hardware on mitchell reels is metric ), or you can just elimate all that trouble and if you don't care use the worst of the four reels you got for a parts reel, and you'll have your part #11. Best regards John in P. :sCh_fisherman:


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2020 12:22 am • #  
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Don,
Thank you so much for your kind offer but I think I'm all set for now.
Kind Regards,
Bill :tup


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2020 12:40 am • #  
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Mates,
Back at the 302.

To remove the now partially drilled out drag assembly screw (DAS) I needed a screw extractor. There are many brands and types of these on the market. We used to call them EZ-Outs but now days each brand seems to have a different name.

I got mine at Lowes and they did have a variety of different brands and types available. I bought the Irwin Hanson Spiral Extractor and Drill Bit – 537 Series - Combo pack. I chose this one because it included the drill bit, made to fit the extractor; was one of the smallest available which fit the size screw I was removing; and was pretty inexpensive. This package, including a 5/64” drill bit and an EX-1 spiral flute screw extractor, cost about $5.00.

Below you can see the spool spindle with the drilled off DAS in the center of the tip. (See below left) Using the supplied 5/64” drill bit I made the hole in the soft brass alloy metal of the remaining DAS. (See below right)
Attachment:
Pic 1-edited.jpg

After I finished drilling the hole in the DAS, I inserted the extractor into the hole and tightened it turning counter clockwise.
Attachment:
Pic 2a-edited.jpg

I placed the spool spindle in a vice along with a couple pieces of soft wood to protect it. I used a crescent wrench to turn the extractor and the threads screwed right out. (See above)
Here is the final piece of the DAS threads and the other pieces which came from the head and shoulder.(See below)
Attachment:
Pic 3-edited.jpg

Above you can see the spindle with the removed screw ready for reassembly.
Many thanks to everyone who contributed suggestions, comments and advice. A special thanks to Don and Sandman.
Kind Regards,
Bill :tup


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2020 1:06 pm • #  
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Good work Bill!...nice save...thanks for the excellent photos and description...looks like that box of reels is going to produce a nice 302...they are really solid and smooth reels.

Sandman


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2020 2:50 pm • #  
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Hello GreatLaker, Looking into the screw hole where the broken piece came out of there is what looks like some corrosion in the threads. I would try to get a small brush of some kind and make an abrasive paste to put in ,and with the brush or a Q tip clean it up some. Then when assembling put some grease on the new screw. Just a thought . John in Pa. :sCh_fisherman:


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2020 6:37 pm • #  
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I have cleaned up threads etc,with a set of brass & stainless tube brushes & PB Blaster. I have 2 different set I got on amazon. the Carb Carburetor, get into very tight spots.
Carb Carburetor Cleaner Cleaning Brushes Kit, Small Wire Brush - 20 Needles + 10 Brushes.
10 Piece Tube Bottle Brush Kit Brass Stainless Steel Bristle 12" Long, Size 1/4" to 3/4" PMD Products.

Oh I didn't want to say it but :sFun_shocked: :sFun_eyescan: saltwater=Corrosion block :sFun_shocked: :sFun_eyescan:

Don

May your lines always be tight, Don


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2020 8:52 am • #  
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Hello Bill,

Since you live in Michigan, will this be a musky reel? Or are you heading for the ocean somewhere?


Glen in Nova Scotia


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2020 4:47 pm • #  
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Oscillator1 and Don,
Thanks for your suggestions. What I finally ended up doing, to clean up the threads that I will be using again, was to use a brass tube brush that is used for cleaning spray paint guns/air brushes. Got a kit of various tools from Harbor Freight for a few bucks. Don had also mentioned this type of tool, and they work great. I have seen other cleaning kits of this type made for cleaning guns, but the prices were much higher, although the quality was probably much higher as well.

After cleaning off the treads, I coated them with Corrosion X, which is great stuff. I buy the big spray bottle, and then transfer a small amount into small needle ended oil bottles I buy on eBay. I posted on another thread what they are and where to find them. I normally keep three of these little bottles on the work bench all the time. One bottle filled with Corrosion X, one with PB Blaster, and one with WD-40. They really save space, and make getting the product right where I want it, without wasting it. I can highly recommend this method and these products.

Bonaventure,
I bet this would be a great Musky reel but I already have Musky tackle. One day I hope to get back to surf fishing for Reds and Stripers but once again I already have tackle sitting on a shelf waiting for that. As I mentioned earlier, this reel, and several others, were part of a mixed bag that came with some Mitchell 300's I wanted. I guess I will try and sell this reel along with the other non-300 reels, as my storage space is filling up.
Many thanks to everyone for their comments and suggestions.
Kind Regards,
Bill :tup


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2020 7:28 am • #  
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Bill,
Well this morning you, you helped me with corrosion prevention.
I have been using Corrosion block grease inside and out of the body of my reels, and wiping them down. After every saltwater trip I spray my rods & reels with water, and re coat them. I'll now buy some Corrosion X, to make the task much easier. Here is a youtube of a guy doing just that.
https://youtu.be/7Wi8oYBnnrk
I also use the small oil bottles.
Thanks, Don

May your lines always be tight, Don


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