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PostPosted: Sun Jan 26, 2020 9:26 am • #  
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This is an article I put up on a members-only UK forum, so I have added it here to assist those members new to servicing these great reels. I will attempt, in time, to add the appropriate images, but each one needs re-sizing for this forum and that'll take some time!

Improvements to a Mitchell 300 reel


Although these old reels are very sound and last a long time, helped by a marvellous network of sellers with new and second-hand parts , there are a number of improvements that can be made to make them both quieter and smoother to use.

That the faults exist at all must be measured by just how many reels are out there…Mitchell sold their millionth reel in 1957! Once Garcia in the USA got involved they really took off…….
So the odd one that slipped through quality control must be expected, but it’s all fixable with a little time and patience.


Firstly you need the right tools…how many oil port screws have you seen butchered by the use of the wrong type of screwdriver ?


At the least you will need the correct screwdrivers for the three following screws; the side cover screws, the oil port screw and the bale arm retaining screws. You will also need a deep reach 12mm socket or box spanner for the baffle plate nut and possibly a 5mm deep reach socket or box spanner for the slide plate retaining screws.

You might also need a set of watchmakers files, a small fine-toothed flat file and de-burring tools or scrapers.

Lastly, metal polish and a vice with soft jaws will be needed to get the perfect finish on some components.




Dismantling the reel.
Use a tray to put things in as you remove them, there are shims that tend to fall to the floor, stuck briefly by grease, as the process continues.
Firstly hold the reel in your left hand by the rotating head, gripping the body with your fingertips so that the reel cannot rotate. With the handle at ‘2 o’clock’ and the anti-reverse turned off, strike a short sharp blow with your right hand to the handle in a clock-wise direction to remove the handle from its left-hand thread.

Check the handle is straight and put it in the bits tray for now.

Now remove the side cover screws and put them in the tray as well. It is now time to open the reel and there is a technique that stops bits falling out…for that matter an exact reversal of the method is required when re-assembling later on.

With the screws removed hold the reel between your hands and open it up like a book, so that both halves face their gears upwards and nothing will fall out.



Put the main reel body aside for now and take the transfer gear from the side cover assembly.




Now remove the little brass pinion gear, taking care to recover all the little brass shims beneath it….some may stay on the side cover shaft, some may stick to the underside of the gear as you remove it. I’ve dismantled dozens of reels only to find the pinion gear shim missing!

Lastly take the main gear out from the side cover, but before doing so rock it about to see how worn the bushes are inside the cover. Early side covers have one brass bearing straight through and they are prone to wearing out, whereas later side covers have a steel bearing pushed in from either end, leaving a grease reservoir between them. For the time being the anti-reverse pawl can remain on the side cover.

Now take the main body of the reel up again and remove the pivot gear, the spool, the spool spindle and then the pivot slide. The pivot slide guide plate can now be removed, if the screws are tight use a 5mm socket spanner. At this time it’s advisable to remove the oil port screw as cleaning inside is very hard with it left in place.

Now undo the 12mm nut on top of the baffle plate in the rotating head followed by the baffle plate. Under the baffle plate is a washer, often black in colour and some shims. These often look identical, but the washer has a smaller hole and won’t go down the shaft .... the shims will. Washers and shims may stick to the underside of the baffle plate or remain on the shaft.

Now remove the rotating head from the body. Under the head there will be a number of smaller shims. These nearly always stay down at the bottom of the shaft and must be teased up without damaging to remove them.


You should now have in your tray pinion gear shims. There must be at least one thin one there, under rotor shims, again there must be at least one there…though crown gear reels, such as the 300A don’t have them usually, and over rotor shim or shims, plus their washer.

Picture the reel assembled again in your mind and think about the shims. You will see how shims under the pinion gear tend to push the gear into the gear on the back of the rotor head, and under rotor shims tend to move them apart again. Over rotor shims correct the changes made by adding or subtracting under rotor shims, to retain the correct clearances inside the rotor and correct bale arm release functioning.

Shims of the three types come in both thick and thin varieties.

There is also a fourth optional shim that can be placed under the main gear to stop its teeth rubbing the side cover. They aren’t used often, though wear marks often found there suggest that they should gave been used more than they were! These shims, number 81035, are hard to find, so I tend to cut a bevel onto the underside of the gear teeth to prevent this damage.

Lastly, to complete the strip-down, remove the bale arm screws and spring and the bale arm from the rotating head, followed by the bale arm release trigger arm, its mounting screw and the spring and its retaining screw. The smaller bale arm mounting screw and the bale trigger spring retaining screw look almost identical, but the latter has a longer threaded section and they are not transposable.



There is just one last part to remove on all but the earliest reels … the balance weight from inside the rotor. It’s worth removing it because there will be a huge amount of grit and other debris under it!

The dismantled reel components:


In the above image the spool has been dismantled too and the anti-reverse pawl, an early metal one, has been removed from the side cover. Note the wear marks on the side cover….this reel should have had an optional shim fitted!

The rotor head has been re-assembled ready to re-fit and all components have been polished, had their sharp edges ‘radiused’ and all gear teeth bevelled to reduce friction and noise. Naturally they were all cleaned and de-greased before any re-assembly can begin.



There’s a trick to getting the bale arm just right ….it is easily bent if the reel is dropped and often binds thereafter. Take the bale arm off, remove the spring and then re-offer the bale arm back onto the rotating head by first slipping the smaller end over the boss on the rotating head and then the larger line roller end. On early reels with a small pin pointing downwards you have to go around behind the boss and bring the pin in through the triangular hole there.

It should now be possible to see how either end sits against the rotating head and whether or not the bale arm wants bending straight again. It also helps if the bale arm doesn’t grip tightly against the rotating head or is so open that it rubs against the mounting screws. Just tweak the bale arm and keep offering it up again until it is perfect.






Re-fitting the bale arm is easy once you know how. It can be done with the spring slipped into the cup on the rotating head, but it is much easier if it is instead pegged into the underside of the bale arm and the two parts offer-up together to the rotating head.

Hold the bale arm far too far back, drop it onto the boss so the spring end goes into its slot on the rotating head and only then bring the bale arm forward close to its proper position. To achieve this proper position you have to get the bale arm stop past a corner of the flat face on the front of the boss, but then you are home! Slip the big screw in and then the smaller one opposite, I like to try it all dry before adding the very tiniest drop of 3in1 oil to either screw. Lots of oil or grease just attracts grit.


A lot of words for an action that takes ten seconds, there’s a Youtube clip by Wallace Carney here…a picture speaks a thousand words…..a Youtube clip a thousand more:

http://http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_muYtp4J5f4

You only need to watch from about 4 minutes and 45 seconds in.



Right. That’s the reel in bits and a few words on how to re-assemble the rotating head, now to fettle the rest of it.

Now is the time to work out what needs tweaking, what needs replacing and what altering. You might check how worn the bearings in the cover plate are, as mentioned previously. You might look at how worn the knob on the handle is but one thing you must do is check every single tooth on the main gear…..

The early anti-reverse ratchet pawls, the metal ones can knock half a tooth off if someone tries to remove the handle with the anti-reverse on so check the main gear very thoroughly indeed. Later pawls are plastic and grip all of four teeth rather than half of one and don’t cause this problem.

………………………………........................................................


Now a few words about the gear train and shims.

A lot of the gears are free floating and are able to come into contact with the sides of other gears. It makes sense to reduce the friction where they might tough one another and Mitchell achieved this with little circles on the faces of the gears so that friction was reduced to a minimum, but there is cope to improve then further still. More of this shortly.

Some of the gears have their movement curtailed by ‘shims’….very thin small brass washers that control the movement of the gears and therefore just how tight they are to one another. There must be at least one shim under the pinion gear that drives the rotating head and the rotating head has shims both under and above it.


Time constraints at the factory assembly line meant that is often room for improvement here for the man with a little more time to spare here. What you are trying to achieve is the minimum movement without binding. It’s surprising just how many later reels have too many shims in them causing them to stiffen up, or ‘bind’ when everything is assembled.

Far better to be loose than tight from both the point of view of stiffness and accelerated wear.


If you need to buy shims these are the part numbers ( note that older shims have just a two number part number, but they have been superceded by 5 figure numbers);

Pinion gear shim on side cover: 81047

Optional shim under main gear: 81035

Under rotor shim: 81024

Over rotor shim: 81012


Over the years the under rotor shim, 81024, got made bigger, but either size always fits. You probably won't need a shim under the main gear, 81035, particularly if you are going to dress the edges as described elsewhere. So that just leaves the over and under rotor shims, 81012 and 81024 to play about with......though you might need to add a second or even a third pinion gear shim, 81047.

Invariably adding extra pinion gear shims means adding more under rotor shims to gain a quiet and smooth gear train and that means removing over rotor shims.


Remember that pinion gear shims and over rotor shims come in several thicknesses. Depending upon where you are obtaining your shims, new or used, you might be offered a selection or a pack of mixed ones.



The method I adopt with shimming is to keep trying other combinations until the reel starts to get noisy and rumbling again and then go back to the best combination again. You might keep a pen and paper next to you to remind yourself just what that best combination had been....


On the whole most reels cam be improved from what the factory sent out shim-wise...just a few, maybe one in ten, won't come out perfect, but they'll probably have been considerably improved.



Actually changing the shimming on a reel means a number of things are required, firstly a selection of shims to offer-up and try, secondly the time to actually do it …. and thirdly the right tools, as mentioned before.

You can leave out the gears and parts that move the spool in and out and just assemble the handle, main gear, pinion gear and rotating head to set up the shimming, but when you get it right that last time, you still have to dismantle it all one more time to re-fit those parts and at this time you can assess whether adding those parts has incurred any stiffness or noise that wasn’t there when they weren’t in use.


Whipping the rotating head, it’s nut shims, washer and baffle plate off several times can seem daunting, but like anything else it gets easier the more you do it.


Now to return to the improvements that are possible:


There follows a selection of images intended to show the modifications by showing a modified part next to an original one. The reel used was a mid-Sixties 300 with a metal anti-reverse mechanism.

First the axle, or spindle:


Note how the metal has been radiused on the sharp edges and polished to a high shine. A coarse finish here is the cause of quite a significant amount of noise and friction, as is the use of too thick a grease..


Next, the oscillating slide:

See how the key-hole cutaway has had its edges radiused. The slide has also had the leading edges front and rear radiused to reduce friction.


The transfer gear:



There is a raised circle on the top of the gear. The inner edge of that circle has been radiused with a scraper tool and the outer edge has been radiused, along with the upper edge of the gear teeth, with a small file. I actually use a file from Stihl intended to sharpen chain-saw blades as it has no edge that can cause damage.


The gear teeth are also chamfered on the underside. All the gear teeth are then brushed with a brass wire brush to clean up the work, then washed and dried ready for inspection. You can feel quite clearly how the sharp edges of the teeth are now soft to the touch.

The main gear:


This has had the teeth chamfered and the inner edge of the recess radiused. It awaits cleaning. The radiusing helps prevent this rubbing on the side cover:

The main gear teeth on the other side are also chamfered to prevent the transfer gear teeth from touching them.

There is an optional shim to lift the main gear clear of the side cover, part number 81035, but it is hard to find and this radiusing and chamfering achieves the same result without moving the gears nearer to one another. Indeed keeping the gears from touching one another is the purpose of the next modification; lifting the transfer gear clear of the main gear by tweaking up the edge of the anti-reverse arm where is goes around its pivot shaft:



The one on the left has the lifted up edge. This lifts the transfer gear up but also reduced friction significantly as the transfer gear used to bear on the side of the arm, now just a tiny curved bit of arm alone touches the gear.




Here are some images showing the clearance between gears created by lifting the transfer gear up:


You can see how the transfer gear now clears the main gear, but also observe how the upper surface of the transfer gear's larger gear, ..the lower one...is now above the upper gear of the main gear. Now, when the pivot gear is added to the train it cannot touch the main gear. Here is the pivot gear rested in position..to hold it parallel to the other gears a small shim has been inserted from the left to achieve the correct alignment:





Now, the only parts touching one another in the gear train have all had the parts that can touch radiused and chamfered...it they do ever touch it will be minimal and not increase friction or noise.

One last look at that anti-reverse arm:


See how the tooth at the end has been bent to make sure it goes deep in between the main gear teeth. This reduces the risk of the arm knocking the top off a tooth if someone tries to remove the handle without turning the anti reverse off first. This makes the anti-reverse sound louder, but that can be addressed by weakening the spring that operates the pawl by bending it a little.

Later reels have a plastic anti-reverse arm that grips four teeth instead of just part of one and doesn't cause such damage, but those later ones are very noisy. Mitchell did come up later with a silent anti-reverse but they are prone to wear.
The later plastic ones can be made to do the transfer gear lifting trick simply by installing a couple of home made shim washers under the anti-reverse pawl. I make them from thick polythene bags material...I cut a square, fold it and fold it again and snip the corner off in such a way that when opened-out again I now have a shim with a hole in the middle. Two of these is usually enough to lift the transfer gear both clear of the main gear and to lift it high enough that the pivot gear is kept clear too.


Please note that in my haste to take the picture I actually have the spring the wrong way round on that later type anti-reverse lever. This causes them to make a horrible chattering sound at low revolutions.
The spring can actually be bent to make it less strong and this goes some way to making the later type a bit quieter as does a huge dollop of grease on the four plastic teeth.....

The image is useful in that it shown all the gears in situ, albeit in this case, gears that have been drilled and modified for a lightweight roach reel that was just a bit of fun.


Here is an image of the pawl, or dog, and spring with the spring fitted the correct way. You can see how tweaking the end of the spring will reduce the force it brings to bear very easily:






The spring has been eased out of its mounting slightly to show how it is fitted.

Here it is again ready to be installed..note how the spring has been bent slightly to ease the pressure, and therefore the noise, it brings to bear. Also you can see a small plastic shim washer fitted in its mounting shaft to raise the transfer gear as mentioned earlier:




Here's one last modification to the gear train that you might consider. Later main gears have a large boss that stops the gear teeth from rubbing on the side plate and thus the occasional need for the shim 81035, but some of them have no lubrication port.

Inside the threaded stem to take the handle is a cotton filter plug that gets filled with grease and oil but stops any grit getting to the shaft and bushes. If you remove it with a bent pin..it will be filthy!...you might choose to do away with it and gain the ability to use the handle to 'push' oil or grease into this are which can otherwisde suffer from water ingress and wear from lack of lubrication.

Obviously, without the filter, you must be scrupulously clean and you can even improve the lubrication by extending the port out into channels to direct the lubricant thoroughly:




This gear, from a late 410 reel, had no port and one was drilled before the channels were ground in with a Dremel engraving tool. After machining in this way the channel edges must be thoroughly flatted down with a small carborundum stone to ensure there are no ridges to cause damage to the bushes. These channels help grease, but oil would penetrate unaided.

Here's that gear again with its roller bearing fitted:



And here's what happens when you prime the handle hole with grease and wind the handle in:




Obviously the bearing has been removed again to let you see the grease flow. The principle is the same in reels that have bushes instead of roller bearings and surely more important as the bushes are not easily replaced if worn. Early reels have a single plain bronze bush that is much prone to wear if not maintained, later ones having two steel bushes with a grease reservoir between them.
This reservoir is fine, provided the old grease is removed and not left in there...not that easy to do, but cotton buds help and the steel bushes last far longer
This image just about shows the two steel bushes of later reel side covers:





You'll see it's a Garcia reel, but with a butterfly anti-reverse lever, so probably from around 1967 or it‘s from America where Garcia was engraved on far earlier…maybe about 1955. These later side covers are very useful for maintaining the appearance of earlier reels but with the better bearings...only the Garcia etching gives the game away if one of these is fitted to a reel from another era.


You might notice that under certain conditions the line-lay is unsatisfactory on a spool. This can be adjusted somewhat by moving the spool forwards or backwards on its spool backplate.

If the line is bunched to the back ( a nightmare for tangles on casting ) the spool wants to go back and this will mean some machining, if it is bunched to the front the spool needs spacing forwards and this is simple to achieve by adding extra washers on top of the plastic cogwheel on the inside of the spool backplate.



Machining the backplate...taking a bit off the washer-face above the cogwheel is no simple task. A lathe is too fast, unless you have one with a variable speed controller. The plastic is both too brittle and it draws the tool in before shattering!

What does work is to mount a spare spindle in a lathe to hold the spool back and then using the tool post to a brace wood chisel in the manner of a wood-turning lathe then turning the lathe chuck by hand slowly.

You really could do with a third hand for this job!

Taking about 0.20' off, (20 thou ) achieved the change in line-lay in the following images:

Before:


After:



It's a lousy image, but perhaps you can just make out how the cogwheel face has been machined down on the spool backplate on the right:



If you need to move the spool drum forwards it is to the cogwheel face that you add extra washers. Mitchell did fit washers there on early reel but dropped them on later ones, instead adding a raised face.

Mitchell often used a white nylon washer there and on the front of the spool under the spring too, but the material is poor. It's fine for low friction uses on match reels but it won't grip when clamped down hard for fishing heavier guage lines for bigger fish...tighten the clutch down and it either fails to grip or it gets jerky.....and that might be enough to cost you the fish of a lifetime....


I found a better material, but you have to hand-but the washers yourself from it. It is the tray that mouse poison comes with notably Rentokill's Rodine.
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/RENTOKIL-RODINE- ... !~~_35.JPG

This stuff needs to be used dry...no grease...indeed petrochemicals rot it.

I've been using the stuff for about a year now and have had a few other anglers try it out to see how they got on with it as well

I found that other firms are using the same plastic and bought some of these when the stuff I had had run out:

It's the big white trays on the left of the image that you want.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110751152792? ... 1439.l2649
This image will one day be gone as the eBay listing becomes three months old of course, but the seller is a professional supplier and should still be stocking them.


One last thing on spools...I like to nip a little off the end of the clicker spring to reduce noise and smooth out the action a little as a fish takes line against the clutch. I do this with a pair of cutters and dress the cut end with a small file.



Most of the early 300 reels have a touch too much lead weight in the rotor and this makes them run out of balance enough to make the tip of a light rod shake around a lot, maybe enough to tangle your line.

The very first reels has the weight bonded in and it can't be removed for cleaning so drilling it for correct balance must be followed by scrupulous cleaning to remove the swarf.


Later reels have the weight held by a couple of screws and it can be removed to be drilled. You will be shocked at the amount of sand and grit under that balance weight!

Later reels, such as the 300A have one screw and one spigot holding the weight in place and they seem to be balanced about right...to check, just slip the rotating head complete with bale arm and all internal parts onto the shaft and spin it to see where it stops. If it repeatedly stops in the same place whatever is at the bottom when it stops is too heavy and it's usually the lead weight
( on 308 and 408 reels it's the opposite and they need more weight adding).

Experience has taught me that drilling two 5.5mm holes, one at either end of the weight, to a depth of about 6 or 7 mm usually does the trick. If you go too far you can always drip some molten lead solder from a soldering iron back into the holes. Or you might do 4 shallower holes as in the next image.


So far, when I bothered to weigh it, the weight of the bare drilled weight, without its screws, on a nicely balanced reel has come out around 22 grams.


One last thing to check before rebuilding the reel and lubricating it. Some late 50's and early 60's reels have a problem with binding up on the backwind as the spool gets to the top of its travel.

It took me whole day to work out the cause...it seems the holes that accept the slide guide mounting screws were drilled slightly out of place. To test if your reel has this problem just insert the spindle, slide guide and slide, then drop in the pivot gear.
Now turn the pivot gear clockwise by hand until the spindle is out as far as it goes and make sure there is no binding as it starts to come back in again.Turn the pivot gear in both directions to be sure there is no sticking



If there is binding the cure is simple...the holes in the slide guide need enlarging to allow it to be wiggled into a slightly different place...a 3.5mm drill bit is big enough.

This image shows how the gap between slide guide and slide narrows at the top...you'd think the guide would need turning clockwise to even up the gap, but peculiarly it needs to be turned anti-clockwise.....



Test again after re-positioning the slide guide to make sure there is now no binding.

The reel can now be re-assembled and lubricated. I did use a basic LMP ( low melting point) car grease and added a little 3 in 1 oil afterwards just to thin it down a little. But I now use Reel X Soft Grease, which though expensive, is superb.
If you've removed the 'filter' from inside the main gear shaft you can prime that with light grease with a tiny screwdriver or cocktail stick and use the handle to push the grease into the bearings or bushes there. When I'm putting the rotating head on I just use oil on the hollow shaft that it goes on and I'm careful to use very little grease on the spindle that goes through the shaft as this can stiffen the reel considerably as the grease causes hydraulic lock.

When fitting the baffle plate back into the rotating head, later designs have a second tang that rubs on the bale release arm. I really can't see the point of this personally and I usually pry this up a little to stop it making contact. The rubbing produces swarf and I think inside the reel is a bad place to have swarf!

Here's the later type of baffle plate...it sort of looks like two letter 'F' s. The tang to the right is the one that closes the baila rm…the one to the left is the one that rubs…just bend it away…downwards in this picture to stop it rubbing.
There’s lots of different baffle styles…only that one needs to be altered.



I'd like to thank Mike Traynor, MetalMickey on eBay, for his help with my reels over the years. Mike stocks a LOT of Mitchell parts and does a fast turn-around postal service too.

If you need any parts for a Mitchell reel you might contact him directly, his details are on his auctions, or through the eBay messaging system:

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/metalmicky1944 ... RTS?_rdc=1

Go into any individual auction and Mike's contact details are in every one.

I've now done a few more modifications to these reels that make them quieter and smoother....maybe they're 'a fettle too far' but it keeps me out of the pub....

Working off the sharp edges of the brass pinion gear and the rotor head gear to give a rounder profile gets rid of a lot of the' Mitchell purr', ...described by some as the sound of a coffee grinder.



It's a pretty fiddly job, plays merry hell with my old wrists so I've only done this to a half dozen reels over the last 2 years, but it does work.....

The other tweak is polishing the shims. just moving them about on a tightly stretched cloth on your table to with a bit of Brasso makes quite a difference.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 26, 2020 2:41 pm • #  
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What a remarkable piece of work !!

This is going to help so many people.

Well done indeed and thanks for sharing.

JF.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2020 6:47 pm • #  
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Knobby,
Thank you for your hard work in typing up your method of servicing a Mitchell 300. If I can be of any help adding your photographs, drop me a PM.
Kind Regards,
Bill :tup


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2020 8:16 am • #  
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Thank-you for your kind words.

Well, I have now created a file of 32 images. I now have to re-size them to suit the forum maximum and upload them.

It may be that some images, when re-sized, no longer help convey the meaning of the text, so I may have to create new images.

Please bear with me.


Ah. A problem...there is no longer an 'edit' button on the original post...any suggestions?


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2020 11:52 pm • #  
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bailarm, thank you for this extensive help with servicing and tuning the 300 reels. Very helpful, since the 300 gearing was not engineered to be a particularly smooth or quiet reel, though, as durable as they come.

The edit button on a post disappears after another member has read your post. Only a moderator can edit at that point.

Sandman


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2020 6:19 am • #  
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Ah, thank-you Sandman.

I hadn't come across an edit button that disappears before and yet all the other forums I am on are php bb as well.

Are there any moderators out there who will be able to add my images for me, please? There are 31 in total, though I may need to create more as one or two may be useless when reduced in size....

Do others see the little (obj) symbols where they are to go....?
test
Attachment:
1.JPG


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 31, 2020 7:40 am • #  
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Bailarm,
I think you want us to add a picture and edit it. I'll try. I posted this, came back to the thread. And it did let me edit it.


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

May your lines always be tight, Don


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 31, 2020 8:49 am • #  
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Thank-you Don. I think rather then ask some poor devil to add 32 images in one go, I should just send 5 or so at a time.

I've re-sized the images and added text to some of them, re-checking the file size afterwards.

Now, does this forum allow images to be attached to PMs? Most don't, though I do know one php bb site in the UK that does.

If not, how best to get them to a willing victim, ...I mean mod?


Does anyone know the permitted file size? The site just gives a pixel height and width if you try to upload one that is too big...which doesn't help very much.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 31, 2020 5:06 pm • #  
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Bailarm,
I am no expert by any stretch of the imagination but here are a few things I have learned that might help you.

First this post by Piscesman which I found very helpful:

piscesman
Post subject: Re: Vintage Mitchell rods
PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2017 5:44 pm • #
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"To post a picture here you have to reduce the size of your image down to 700 x800 megapixels. You can do it several ways. If the picture is on your home computer you can right-click the image and see properties. Click on that and you can reduce your image. Once done come back here. Go on topic you want. Go to bottom of that page and you will see upload image. Click and it will give you options of where to get your image from. Click image and it will bring you back here. Click again upload and it is done. SUBMIT REPLY and wait. When you upload image You WILL NOT SEE IT !!!Once submit is hit and it does it's magic you will be brought back to your reply. You will now see picture. Make sure all is OK. If not EDIT BEFORE YOU LEAVE THAT PAGE. Do the editing and continue on. On a cell phone pretty much the same except you have to have a photo resize site to get your images uploaded. Hope this helps.
Kim"


-I believe each post is allowed to include 3 attachments(photos,etc.) only.
-I have not had an issue with the file size (not dimensions) as of yet, you might need to experiment with this by resizing the physical dimensions to 700 x 800 and not shrinking the file size and see if it will work.
-I know that there were exceptions to the 3 attachment limit but, that was long ago. As you know Wallace had to make changes to the site, perhaps that is why we now have the 3 attachment limit.

To see an example see link below. (before you click on the link know that when you do the site will automatically log you out and you will have to log back in. Just review the post and hit the back button at the top of the page (using Windows) when done and you will be logged back in and sent back here..)

viewtopic.php?f=75&t=1197

The Garcia Mitchell 3-0-0 Spinning Reel Service tutorial by Triedm, is pretty much what you are trying to do and he was able to do it. His tutorial was posted on several websites back in the day and I happened to down load a copy before Photobucket screwed up all the pics.

I would be willing to bet you will need special permission to add more than the 3 attachment limit from an administrator to do what was done by Triedm before.

Hope this is helpful information.
Kind Regards,
Bill :tup


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 31, 2020 8:51 pm • #  
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Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2018 3:35 am
Posts: 394
Bailarm,
I don't know how to do it Bill's way. I have windows and click on a picture, than left click it. I open it in paint, up top resize, click on pixels 850 and save.
No you can't send pictures in PM.
Don

May your lines always be tight, Don


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